Saturday, September 5, 2009

Sugared sugar

As an avid consumer (and sometimes a harsh critic) of the DC cupcake scene, I was intrigued to see this Slate article by Daniel Gross predicting a cupcake bubble. Unfortunately, this article is an example of a great idea and terrible execution. Yes, lots and lots of cupcake places have opened recently and there is reason to wonder how many people will become regular cupcake consumers after the novelty is less charming. But after dressing up this basic observation in several needlessly long paragraphs, Gross concludes:
I've tried a bunch of these new cupcakes and find them to be way too sweet—sugar on top of sugar.
Okay. Now it is true that nearly every cupcake does consist of sugar (in the form of icing) on top of other sugar (mixed into a cake). But this sentence made me wonder if the fault lay not in the cupcake enterprise, but in the cupcakes themselves-- or at least the ones that Gross has tried.
To take just DC as an example, there is a big difference between Baked & Wired's sugar-loaded (though yummy) monstrosities and the much less sweet and more perfect specimens at Georgetown Cupcake. If the real problem is just that most of the new companies make their cupcakes too sweet, then plenty of good cupcakes should survive the creative destruction of the marketplace.

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